Bet Your Bippie

When it comes to beer, intensity is defined in a lot of different ways. Intensity can mean big booze. Intensity can mean big hops. It can mean big malt, and it can mean just about anything that the drinker finds effectual beyond the norm.

Well, I’ve got one for you. Wrap your senses around a Southern Tier Brewing Company Crème Brulee Imperial Milk Stout, which is available widely around town at your favorite grog shops and at some of the beer serving venues that look for the better stuff. I discovered mine at Mo’s O’Brady’s in the Carr’s Huffman Mall on the south side of town.

Buy one of these, or order it up at your favorite watering hole, if they have it, it you can’t get it within an arm’s reach of your face before your schnauz is slapped with what you might expect of a beer with crème brulee in its name. Note that I didn’t mention stout. Yeah, this one’s stout, but not like your paradigm-driven mind might lead you to think. Your nose is going to tell you sweet, vanilla, buttery, full custard crème, and lots of it. Remember that last time you were out at perhaps Glacier Brewhouse, Sullivan’s or another fine dining establishment and you rounded out you evening with a crème brulee? This beer will take you right back there in a hurry.

So, what I’m saying is that this is not the beer you want to slaughter back after shoveling snow for 45 minutes on a cold afternoon. Finish that task, build a warming fire, grab a couple of goblets, toss your feet up on the coffee table and share this brew with the person who appreciates your hard work the most.

This one pours black. Hold it up to the fire in the background and you won’t see through it. The head is tan and holds throughout the sample, leaving interesting, conversational lacing down the sides of the glass as you relish is delicious sip after sip. And, sip you must. The intensity in aroma and flavor is almost overwhelming. Put the spoon down. At 9.6 percent alcohol, that’s easily buried in the flavor, you might have to spoon yourself to bed after drinking a 22 ounce bomber of this alluring stuff.

The flavor follows the nose entirely. Expect rich vanilla, almost oak-like notes, along with sweet, buttery essence, plenty of custard and just enough hop bitterness to keep the beer from being entirely cloying. It is cloying, but it’s balanced. Expect as well, some of that forgotten dark stout character including a compendium of dark malt essences, some rich roastiness that compliments the fire, and hopefully your mood in the background, a sweet, chocolaty center and just a hint of the big booze that might make you sleepy before you finish your pour. Feeling a little stout? Get warm with your honey after splitting a bottle of this and you might re-define stoutness.

Intensity can be good or bad in a beer, but if you look for intensity in flavor and richness, this beer truly delivers.

Get creative. Back up before the aperitif. This beer would pair lovely with a complementing, rich dessert. Did someone say crème brulee? Give it a shot. Maybe some nice seasonal chocolates that are showing up around town as we bust into the holiday season? As the label proclaims, think “black and white.”

Back up even more. Try this beer with soft cheeses. Wander into Fromagio’s Artisan Cheese at 1120 O’Malley Center Drive, Suite C, and ask one of the true professionals there what might pair up nicely with this rich, dark sweetish brew. Shhhh….don’t tell anyone, but I love the contrast between Crème Brulee and a hunk of pepperoni or wine salami right off the nub. Introduce a lamb or stew meal with this stuff. It’ll overpower lighter fare and even spicy salads, so find your match elsewhere in the kitchen. Warm up the palate before the gastrointestinal ride of making the food blend with the brew.

Southern Tier’s Crème Brulee Imperial Milk Stout is not your everyday, workhorse brew. It’s refined, distinguished and fine, but very in-your-face. It’s an oddity, but a very good one and should be on hand for whatever occasion you find fit.

Southern Tier makes a basket of different beers, not all of which we get up here in Alaska, but the brand is worthy of seeking out. Aside from this one, reach for their porter, pale, imperial IPA (if you want intensity in hops) imperial red ale (if malt forwardness is your forte) and for sure right now Pumpking (yes, I spelled that right) if you want a pumpkin-pie-in-your-face intensity that matches right up with Crème Brulee if bigness is your penchant. Okay, just find anything Southern Tier, and you can’t go wrong.

Gold Rush Liquors, Brown Jug Warehouse, La Bodega and Gold Rush Liquors (in Ester, just before Fairbanks) are best bets, although other liquor stores that pack big flavor will likely carry these brews as well.

When it comes to intensity, remember, it’s how YOU define it, not someone else, but if you like the big side, you’ll do well to monitor beers in this line.

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The New Eagle River Alehouse

Want to get in on something cool? It’s not quite top secret, but close to it. Have you heard about the new Eagle River Alehouse? It rocks. When owner Matt Tomter came on line, he did so with 30 taps. The restaurant has two floors, no elevator and no dumbwaiter and the thought of his servers and patrons using the staircase together caused concern. It would be okay for food, but with trays of delicious glasses of beer being jostled up and down, the potential for messes was a risk Tomter wasn’t comfortable with.

He came up with a brilliant solution and made history in the process. “I’ll just install another 30 taps upstairs,” he said to me during a visit shortly after the establishment opened. “Oh, and those upstairs beers will all be local,” he beamed. Simultaneously he became the caretaker of the state’s most extensive tap line (pushing Humpy’s out of it’s forever position in first place) and bumping Firetap Southside out of being able to claim the most local beers in tap, if even by a few.

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Arkrose Brewery and King Street Brewing make 22 licensed Alaska breweries

King Street Brewery

Wasn’t it just a week or so ago that I announced the opening of another brewery here in the state?  That’s right, Arkose Brewery in Palmer finally got to pouring beer back on Tuesday, October 11th.  It was a quiet affair, but I made it out there and the beer was good.  The announcement came late and I had just enough time to jump in the Fermentomobile and rip out there to see what this new place was all about.  I wasn’t able to announce it ahead of time, or I’m sure some of you would have been out there with me.

Well, here’s your chance to participate in the opening of yet another brewery in Alaska, only this time, if you live in Anchorage, you won’t have to drive so far.  King Street Brewing Company is finally ready to showcase their beer, and if you can make it down to Humpy’s Great Alaskan Alehouse on Tuesday, October 25, you can be one of the very first to check out the first release of a beer that’s been a long time in coming.

It was just over a year ago that I interviewed Shane Kingry and Dana Walukiewicz about them starting to put together the brewery on the south side of town in the King Street Industrial area, coincidentally, not far from where Anchorage’s first post-prohibition microbrewery opened.  I had to pause and reflect on this a bit.  Bird Creek Brewery helped pave the way for other inspiring brewers to see that craft beer does have a place here in Alaska.  That was fully 20 years ago, and the brewery’s long gone, having shut down in 1998.

I should know this because in another capacity I’m the President of the Brewer’s Guild of Alaska, but to my best estimation,King Street makes for 22 licensed brewing operations in Alaska, not all of which are currently operating.  More are in the works with HooDoo Brewing expecting to open in 2012.  I’m proud to say I’ve seen 29 breweries in operation here in Alaska, but dismayed that, because of the huge geographical dispersion of great suds across the vast state of Alaska, I’ve yet to visit them all.

Back to King Street.  Like just about every other upstart brewer, both Kingry and Walukiewicz got their start in homebrewing. Kingry estimates he’s been making beer for 10-15 years and Walukiewicz for at least 15.  Both share a huge passion for the great beer here in Alaska and wanted to step beyond homebrewing and contribute to great suds in our state.

Their ambition grew, but the brewery was a long time in coming.  Setback after setback kept them from their goal of opening in January or February of this year.  The myriad of licensing and inspection requirements that come from agencies that don’t coordinate very well with each other to help brewing upstarts along caused the delays, but the duo learned to take it in stride, consulting with other brewers around the state on how to get around some of the obstacles.

The team originally thought a 3.5 barrel brewhouse made sense, but looking around at the explosive beer market here in the state, they knew they’d quickly outgrow a small system  and opted for a 10 barrel system with 20 barrel fermenters and conditioning tanks to produce primarily Euro-style beers from the small location on King Street.

I love walking into a shiny new brewery and looking at all the gleam that comes before the steam and the smells of cooking beer.  My initial visit revealed a beautiful brewhouse with everything set up and pretty much ready to go.  Kingry proudly showed me around and his pride is easily reflected in the attention to detail and craftsmanship it took to get the place together and ready to brew beer.  At the time, the brewers were waiting for some last minute licensing hiccoughs and the arrival of brewing ingredients and the equipment manufacturer who was headed north to assist in making the brewery fully operational.

About a month ago, I got a text message from Kingry on my cell phone announcing that the brewery was moving into producing non-production test batches of beer.  Most breweries do this and make a number of batches of beer to tweak recipes and to ensure that the first brew out of the pipe is exactly what they want it to be, that they can produce it consistently as demand will call for it, and to guarantee that the beer meets the incredibly high expectations of you discerning Alaska beer lovers out there.

So, if you want to be a part of history in the making, show up at Humpy’s at 5:30 on Tuesday, October 25th for your shot of some King Street glory.

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Arkose Brewing Company

Alaska’s newest brewery was officially opened in Palmer on October 11th. Welcome Arkose Brewing Company to Alaska’s ever-growing line up of stellar breweries that continue to put our state on the foamy map.

Owners Steven and June Gerteisen worked hard to get the beer flowing. A myriad of licensing, equipment and logistical hurdles delayed what they optimistically thought would be a mid summer opening until just recently. But, open they did, and even though they only featured one beer for the quiet affair, I was on hand to sample it and can testify that it’s worthy indeed.

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Catch the Love Buzz

Anchorage Brewing Co. Love Buzz Saison

Want to catch a buzz?  When it comes to good beer, it’s easy.  And, when it comes to Anchorage Brewing Company, there’s been quite a buzz about the beers coming out of this one-of-a-kind brewery housed in the subterranean, cavernous underbelly of the Snow Goose Restaurant and Sleeping Lady Complex on 3rd Ave in downtown Anchorage.

Most people don’t even know the brewery exists, and those around the world that enjoy the three beers that have come from this brewery so far often wonder where the brewery is.  There’s no sign outside or even inside proclaiming the small, but globally successful brewery under the floor of the Sleeping Lady Brewery right above it.  In fact, few people know there are a couple of entire floors below the ground floor of the complex.

Brewer Gabe Fletcher knew very well what was below the brewery and knew with a little bit of negotiating, he could put it to good use while realizing a life long dream of opening a brewery that makes all oak-aged, Brettanomyces infused high end specialty beers.  He struck a deal with the owners and set up shop down below.  And oddly, Fletcher doesn’t own a mash tun, brew kettle or other equipment to actually brew the beer.  He uses the brewery upstairs and gravity feeds the beer to the oak casks in his brewery down below.

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September Sudzfest

Beer festivals in Alaska are an odd thing. In America’s lower 48 states, summer is full throttle beer festival time, and close to 500 of them are hosted around the states in the months of June, July, August and September. If you haven’t noticed, big beer events aren’t so robust up here in the summer.

The primary patrons of a beer festival in Alaska are our local residents that are looking for something fun to do. But our local residents generally have plenty to do in the summer because the fish, the fun and getting away from the norm are our favorite pastimes. Who wants to stick around town and drink beer when increasingly, we can take our favorite beer with us, or find something local and good on the way to our favorite or new destinations around the state?

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East-siders get new, but Familiar Brew

I chase beer all over town and all over Alaska and when something new pops up, I try to be one of the first to pay a visit and see what it’s all about. There’s great excitement in new restaurants and bars here because we have finite space to put them and simply because it gives us somewhere else to go in our vast, but still limited confines.

Beer’s broadly dispersed around Anchorage, but for whatever reason, at least up until now, all the movers and shakers in the craft beer scene have remained detached and disinterested in the northeast side of town. Maybe it’s the perceived demographics and the sense that the more affluent and more serious craft beer lovers live elsewhere. Nothing could be farther than the truth, but it seemed like good craft beer couldn’t get any closer.

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From the Bottle

One of the best aspects of being a beer lover in Alaska is that you’re not alone.  And, this has significance beyond the enjoyment of the camaraderie of beer drinking peers.  Alaska has a hugely sophisticated palate when it comes to beer.  A region’s relative palate maturity shapes the amount of risk beer purveyors (wholesalers, distributors, retailers and publicans) are willing to accept when they bring new fermented goods into the state.  Revel in the fact that we enjoy a rather steady stream of new beer in our liquor stores and on tap and in the bottle in our favorite watering holes.

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Filling in the Gaps

A couple of new venues put some new color on the Southcentral Alaska beer map. Beer lovers and epicureans alike will be delighted with the announcement of the opening of a Firetap Alehouse in the Tikahtnu Commons Shopping Center in Anchorage’s east side where Muldoon peters out to the west before running into the Elmendorf AFB gate.

Welcome 30 more tasty taps to the draught offerings in Anchorage. Principal Jack Lewis and General Manager Gary McCutcheon insist the place is all about beer and I believe it. In addition to a good mix of local, national and international brands look for a healthy bottle selection and what McCutcheon hopes to be the biggest canned beer assemblage in the state. “One of the things I’m hearing a lot about is this canned beer thing. We’re very interested in that type of a program,” he says

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Get Your Rathskeller on at Schwabenhof

Schwabenhof Beer

Schwabenhof Beer

Historically, a Rathskeller is a German name for a bar, pub or drinking establishment located in a basement, or below the street level.  My first exposure to such a thing was back in the mid 1980’s in Los Angeles where I was visiting a good friend and he took me to a now forgotten place situated below street level in a busy downtown area.  Plainly appointed, only picnic tables adorned the concrete floor, and mostly bare walls and a lone upright piano stood in the corner where a featured, notable speed beer drinker entertained the crowd with both engaging tunes and an occasional speed drinking demonstration or in response to a challenger who thought he or she could do better.  Oh, and they only served plastic pitchers of cheap domestic draft beer.  That was the only beer on the menu.  People rolled with abandon, and it was all part of the mood.  I had a blast.

I don’t know of any rathskellers in Alaska, but I know of a place that reminds me of one, only it’s about as opposite as it comes when I examine the classical definition of a subterranean, rowdy, mood-oriented place.  My exposure to this particular venue came years ago as a writer for my weekly column in the Anchorage Press and I’d discovered Schwabenhof, a little German-like place perched atop a hill at mile 7.5 on the Palmer/Wasilla highway.  Back then, the food writer for the Press and I went on a double date with our spouses and decided to check this place out.

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